Monday, February 15, 2010

Godzilla

After leaving the lovely innkeepers at the ryokan, we left Kyoto to travel to where the MV Explorer was ported in Kobe, Japan. Today was my home stay, which was one of the trips I had been looking forward to the most. It is traditional to give your host a gift that represents your school or home, and of course, to no surprise to anyone I’m sure, I forgot mine at home. Thirty minutes before the home stay I scurried around my room attempting to find some type of memento. I finally landed upon a pink University of Virginia hat that I had only worn a handful of times. The Japanese love baseball, right?

Jason and I were scheduled to be with different home-stay families, but when my host came first and saw Jason kiss me goodbye she insisted he come with me. After a few logistical procedures, me, Jason, and our new friend Keiko were off into the city. Keiko was a 26 year old school teacher who taught high school math and government. She was married to a public officer, who had to work and could not be with us. She was extremely sweet and was a very progressive young Japanese woman. She knows five languages, and went to study for her masters in Rome. She did not have any children, and at one point during the visit told us how she didn’t like the current President because he put such high taxes and penalties on couples without children. One of the greatest health related issues in Japan right now is the low birth rate. Marriage in Japan is very traditional, where the wife is expected to stay home and take care of the children. Many women are delaying marriage and childbirth in order to have careers and hold more independent lives.

Keiko and I outside of her home:



Although her English wasn’t the best, we got along well regardless. She took us out to a delicious sushi restaurant where we feasted on an array of fresh fish and miso soup. It was incredible to me how fast and how much such a tiny person could eat! I couldn’t finish my plate, which as I’m sure you all are aware, is a rare occurrence for me. I’m guessing because Japanese people eat no grease, barely any dairy products, or carbs, they are able to keep up their tiny physique regardless of the amount they eat.

After lunch, she took us to her home. Keiko was not the greatest driver, there were a number of times where I had my feet pressed into the floorboard with all my strength. She kept saying “you think I’m dangerous!” and then would break out in laughter. I would chuckle nervously, while simultaneously praying to God I would not die on a highway in Japan. When we got back to her house, which was a very modern looking townhouse, she asked us to get out of the car so she could park. Keiko then proceeded to hit the mailbox. I have never tried to stifle laughter more in my entire life.

Here is a picture of her house. When I arrived she had a signed hung on the door that read “Welcome to Ms. Anne Wulf”. It was very sweet. The inside of her house was decorated very much like an American home, with a couch, plasma tv screen, and a table and chairs. They did have a room very similar to the one I stayed in at the ryokan as well.



We went inside and Keiko prepared Jason and I a Japanese dessert and coffee.

She then handed me a beautifully wrapped gift. She gave me a gorgeous Japanese handmade jewelry bag, jewelry box, Japanese candy, and a Japanese hanging piece of wall art. Her husband wrote me a very nice note saying how he wish he could have been there for the home stay and if I ever come back to Kobe to come visit again to their house. I was very touched by her generosity and the care they obviously both went to in choosing my gifts and welcoming me to their home. After the gift opening we talked more her and Japanese culture. She was a very talented musician and played us traditional Japanese songs on the computer. Before we left, Keiko wrote us a very nice note telling us how much she enjoyed our kindness and friendliness. It is something I will always cherish.

When the afternoon was over Keiko drove us to the train station (thank goodness) and we exchanged emails and hugs goodbye. I was blown away by how absolutely kind she was, intelligent, and the effort she took to accommodate us. I really hope one day I will be able to repay her hospitality if she ever visits the United States.

That night we took the train to Hiroshima, so we could wake up early and look at the monument before our boat sailed the next day. We left our hotel around 8am and made our way to the Peace Memorial Park. This park commemorates all those who were lost in the atomic bombing and to offer constant reminder of the tragedy of atomic warfare. The atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima at 8:15am on August 6, 1945, killing over 140,000 people. It raised the surface temperature to 3000 to 4000 degrees Celsius and generated a blast that blew 440 meters per second of 984 miles per hour. One of the few buildings to remain standing was the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, which has now come to be known as the A-bomb Dome:

This is what it looked like before the bombing:


It was really interesting to me to note the differences between Pearl Harbor and Hiroshima. The Pearl Harbor museum made sure to emphasize who the evil perpetrators of the attack were. Not once did I read the name of the United States at the Hiroshima memorial. They referred to the attack as “mistaken national policy”. Their mission of the memorial is stated as follows:

The National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims is an effort of Japanese national government to remember and mourn the sacred sacrifice of the atomic bomb victims. It is also an expression of Japan’s desire for genuine and lasting peace. This hall and its counterpart in Nagasaki City are designed to convey the tragic disasters that occurred in these cities to people around the world and ensure that future generations will learn from these experiences.

Walking through the park and reading the names and about the lives of all of those who perished was very heartbreaking. At the same time though, the park’s mission for peace could be felt as you walked through the trails and it gave me hope for a future that does not repeat the tragedies of the past.


Annecdote

2/13/2010: When we left Keiko’s home, we all stopped at the door to put on our shoes. As I bent over to pick me shoe up, I heard a loud gasp and scream. I looked up to see Keiko staring at me with bewildered eyes. She then proceeded to yell “HUGE FEET!”. Yes, I must appear like Godzilla to the Japanese.

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